When Peter Hawkings was revealed as the heir to Tom Ford, who stepped down as creative director at his own label last April after selling it to Estée Lauder for a staggering US$2.8 billion (S$3.76 billion) in 2022, many in the fashion world saw him as a fitting choice. A long-standing colleague of Ford, Hawkings had collaborated with him for over two decades, making him a dependable and experienced selection. Despite his designs being perceived as conservative during his tenure, they were executed with exceptional quality. In a statement to Vogue last September, he mentioned that he had been getting ready for this role his entire life.

Tom Ford's recent additions of new handbag styles and beauty products mark the brand's expansion into various categories. Despite Hawkings' unexpected departure and the choice to skip the Milan Fashion Week presentation, the brand remains committed to innovation. The fashion industry is currently experiencing a wave of prominent designer departures and appointments, signifying a period of change and a focus on innovation and profitability. Lanvin and Valentino are among the brands that have revamped their creative leadership, underscoring the industry's drive to attract new customers through the strategic recruitment of fresh talent.

The fashion world now demands quick success from new designers, putting pressure on creative directors to deliver fast results and please online critics. Even successful designers like Viard and Maria Grazia Chiuri face tough criticism. Replacing iconic figures like Tom Ford and Karl Lagerfeld is challenging, with the debate on Tom Ford's womenswear: stick to old codes or add a fresh perspective? The focus on womenswear is a big opportunity, especially with the strong link between beauty and fashion.